Notes from a Napkin: Peaks Island & Portland

The crew member opened the gate, and our morning ferry crowd began to shuffle across the dock, past the indoor seating, and up the steps to the top deck where we could take in the view. The buzz amongst the locals was the heat wave with temps climbing into the 90s, documenting the hottest day on record in Maine, or so they said. Looking at the view from the upper deck, the Portland dock scene was spread out before us with its bright red tug boats, ocean vessels, and sailboats navigating the channel between the city, the islands, and the Atlantic ocean. The call of the seagulls, blustery ocean winds, and busy boat traffic were all part of the 18-minute ride to Peaks Island. If your travel plans take you to the coast of Maine, here are some of our highlights from Peaks Island and Portland to consider for your adventure.

Before the ferry departure, just across the street from the terminal, we ordered freshly baked chocolate croissants and blueberry oatmeal scones at The Standard Baking Company. Much to our surprise, we came upon a long line there Saturday morning (yes, we went every day), waiting for 45 minutes to reach the counter. We adjusted our arrival time for the next two days and stood for 15-minutes before ordering. Well worth the wait! Standard Baking on Fore Street is a must-visit for anyone who appreciates fresh bread and delicious baked goods.

Most of our weekend was spent with friends and family on Peaks Island, which is mainly residential. Beautiful homes of all sizes are perched on the waterfront. The annual Peaks Island Road Race kicked off the first day. Each participant in the kids’ run wore the #1 pinned to their shorts and tops as they sprinted around the block, panting, cheering, and yelling at siblings. The more serious 5-mile runners came next. We offered a brief respite from the heat by spraying water across the road at the three-mile marker. The rest of us who didn’t run cheered the racers with another discovery in hand, Rally and Patina beer from the local Austin Street Brewery.

Golf carts are the mode of transportation on Peaks as you wind around the weathered island roads to the Back Bay. Without the mainland and other islands to block the wind, this area feels the full force of the ocean crashing onto the rocks and the wind blowing in from the Atlantic. The raw beauty of mother nature is on display.

Those who venture here from bigger cities are used to scheduling around train times; however, on Peaks Island, residents follow the low and high tides (and the shark sightings). As beach-goers, we set our folding chairs on the rocky sands at low tide, where a few brave souls ventured into the 62-degree water. (I waded up to my ankles and decided that was far enough.) We witnessed a stunning sunset later that evening from the same beach. The sand and rocks we traversed earlier had disappeared under the ocean waves.

On Sundays in the summer, the live jam of reggae music can be heard from the Jones Landing bar and restaurant. It’s a convenient venue immediately off the Peaks Island ferry, with an amazing waterfront lawn. Be sure to put this casual party on your calendar.

After all the food and fun, you may want to hit the Joseph E. Gray Jr. trail just beyond the bustle of Commercial Street in Portland. (The Ocean Gateway visitors building is right before the trail; a good stop for clean, public restrooms.) The paved Gray trail hugs the coastline for miles offering a beautiful view of the water. It’s a place walkers, cyclists, skateboarders, and runners (and dogs) enjoy. Looking out across the ocean one can’t help but dream of the next excursion by the sea.

Photos top row: Sunset from Peaks Island look across at Portland, Ferry arrival at Peaks, festive golf cart, Peaks Island beach. Bottom row: Peaks Island road racers enjoying a cool water spray, Standard Baking, a marina view from the Joseph E. Gray Jr. trail.