Each week in our communications with you, we share unique ideas and opportunities to elevate experiences, whether it’s in gift-giving, entertaining, or treating yourself in your home or haven. Today, we’re doing something a bit different; we’re sharing tales and tips from our travels to help you decide if the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a place you want to experience or, perhaps, revisit.

Tortola is an island that invites you to shed your layers. The relaxed, peaceful setting allows you to peel back to your natural self and slow it way down. We spent seven days on our trip celebrating a milestone birthday, enabling us to experience the local culture and the tropical vibe. Each day, we made time to swim in gorgeous ocean waters, breathe in the laid-back atmosphere, and taste-test the legendary rum painkillers.

Before we dive in, it’s important to provide some context around our trip so you know the basis for these reflections. We did not stay at a resort; we rented a hillside villa in Long Bay, West Tortola. We wanted to explore multiple islands and experience the local flavors and culture. The warm breeze, beautiful views, and two beach restaurants just a short walk down the hill made this an ideal location for our family. And the long stretch of soft white sand, ideal for slow, restful sunrise walks, was only a few steps away.

Here are tips, a few photos, and reflections for your consideration as you plan future excursions. (These opinions are our own and are not sponsored.)

A launch location.
Tortola is a great home base with sparkling beaches, multiple ferries, and marinas to access other islands. With approximately 60 islands across the BVI, you’ll want to select different destinations to experience. While we thoroughly enjoyed the beaches on Tortola, there is too much to see to anchor yourself on one island for the entire stay.

Keys, please.
If you want to explore Tortola, you’ll want a vehicle, preferably one for rugged terrain. It’s costly and limiting to rely on calling a driver for each beach excursion, boat day, and trip to the market or marina. We had a car delivered to our house, which was perfect. While a vehicle makes exploration easier, you may need to get comfortable driving on the left side of the road. Fortunately, the roads are not congested, and the pace is slow. A bigger adjustment is the steep switchbacks as you travel over the mountains. Those took some getting used to. We learned that two beeps of the horn, as you pass blindly over a mountain top, helps alert drivers.

Beaches and boats.
Book at least one boat day to get out on the water, more if you can. We chartered a private catamaran, aptly named the Day Dream, from Kuralu Catamaran Charters and loved it so much we chartered another trip with them later in the week. There are too many islands to miss the gorgeous scenery, unique beach bars, and snorkeling or diving options. Each destination has a distinct feel. You will find lively, rocking beaches, or you can enjoy quiet, peaceful coves. Below are a few beach highlights.

Before you head out: Look up the cruise schedules on a website like cruisemapper.com before you pick your beach. You’ll want to know which cruise ships are coming to what ports, on what days, and how many people the ships hold. Some ships carry 300, some 3000 people; that’s a big difference on a beach.

Smuggler’s Cove is a gorgeous sandy beach just around the bend from Long Bay. Patricia’s or Nigel’s beach bar is ready to serve. The waves were slight, great for swimming, and the space was abundant on our visit. Bring cash.
Cane Garden Bay is a busier beach with more bars and tends to attract cruise ship passengers. We unpacked our cooler down the beach, away from the crowds. The Callwood Family Rum Distillery is in an old, weathered stone building across the street from the beach. It’s touted as the Caribbean’s oldest continuously operating distillery. Don’t expect a lengthy tour; it’s one small room open to the public. For $1.00, you can enjoy the hostess’ entertaining tales of each of the four rum pours (like the “Boxer Remover”) in a tasting flight.
Stoutt’s Lookout was a colorful, unexpected discovery in the hills between Long Bay and Cane Garden. We pulled off the road to partake in what we ultimately voted as one of the best painkillers of the trip. Here, we heard lively stories from the owner, who worked for years at the Sagamore on Lake George, New York, and the Greenbriar in West Virginia. Another patron had just arrived after 23 days of sailing, with three friends, from Spain to Tortola. (He was still adjusting to being off the boat.) A Native American, former New York City ballet dancer, regaled us with his travels and how he had made his home here. Stoutt’s was a terrific find.
Soggy Dollar Bar was the most crowded spot, which isn’t surprising given its renowned reputation. Families, friends, and captains anchor close to the shoreline to put their boats and bodies on full display. Get ready to party here. We ferried to Jost Van Dyke for a full day, and Frankie dropped us off via his “taxi.” (Check out the live webcam, but don’t be fooled, it only shows one small section of the beach.)
The Baths is a unique National Park. You arrive on this beach by swimming in from your boat. There is no dock nor beach dinghy access. A dirt trail leads you down and around to the massive granite boulders on the shores of Virgin Gorda. (The Baths is the only spot we could have used water shoes.) We swam barefoot to its shores in our bathing suits, where the hot and sometimes rocky trail encouraged us to move quickly! The boulders of all shapes and sizes span over six acres, making it a beautiful destination to splash and swim in the pools of water. One caution, you need to be comfortable in waves that swirl around you as you climb between the rocks and shallow pools. This is not a good spot for those nervous about swimming. Note: It costs $3/pp to enter the Park. Yes, that means you are swimming with money. And if you want photos, you’re swimming with your iPhone. We did both.

Tidbits & Tips

Leave anything resembling formal, dressy attire at home. Carefree shorts, T-shirts, a few “nice” tees (read: no logos), casual sandals, and flip-flops are all you need for this trip - and water shoes if you’re going to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. BVI is a no-fuss kind of place. The air is warm and humid, so no cumbersome haircare is practical - you’ll want to be in the sunshine and sparkling waters. As for makeup, bring your favorite mascara and Ilia or Jones Road cheek balm that doubles as lip balm, and you’re ready.

Conch and cocktails. You're not visiting Tortola for the wine list. Stick with cocktails or the local beer and try a Painkiller (the local rum beverage of choice) everywhere. The conch fritters are a delicious local seafood appetizer.

There is not an ATM on every corner. Take cash and plan when and where to stop to access an ATM. Often the remote beach bars only take cash, and you’ll need it for drivers, tips, and some restaurants.

Stick with SPF 45. The sun is intense, and you’ll thank yourself by the end of the week.

Farm and furry friends. You’ll wake every day to roosters crowing on Tortola. (Think: My Cousin Vinny.) Hens, roosters, and a stray cat visited our patio daily (admittedly, I fed the cat :) Goats and miniature ponies were walking along the road as we drove. It’s a rural landscape blended with magical ocean scenery.

Plan to buy jugs of water if you’re on Tortola. We didn’t discover until after we arrived that you can’t drink the tap water.

There is so much to see and explore; the list above is a sample of our trip. It was our first visit to BVI as a family, and we didn’t get to all the places. However, we hope this helps get you excited about discovering the magical scenery on Tortola and the neighboring tropical islands.

Bon Voyage!

Photos starting top left: Long Bay West, Soggy Dollar Bar, Boaters Rows at Soggy, Stoutt’s Lookout Owner, Callwood Rum Distillery, Stoutt’s Lookout view, Rugged swimming through the Baths, Cane Garden at sunset.

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Notes on a Napkin: Tales and Tips from Tortola, BVI